Located on the edge of an extraordinary landscape, whose star elements are possibly the numerous glacial lakes that bear its name, the village of Burgos preserves an old and interesting history, sometimes wrapped in the impenetrable mists of the legend.

The popular refrain says that all roads lead to Rome; In particular, I neither deny nor affirm anything, but I do advise following the route that last Saturday took me to this extraordinary place. A route that, starting in the soriana part of pine forests, crosses picturesque towns such as Vinuesa (village and pine cut), Salduero, Covaleda, Duruelo de la Sierra, continuing in the province of Burgos, by Regumiel de la Sierra, Canicosa de la Sierra, Quintanar de la Sierra and Neila, visiting places of great interest, such as the church of San Miguel and the Mozarabic necropolis of the tenth century, in Duruelo; the icnitas of Regumiel; the necropolis of Revenga, in Canicosa or the Fuente Sanza, considered as the place where the Arlanza river is born, which is located halfway between Quintanar de la Sierra and Neila.

Legendarily speaking, as I said at the beginning, it also relates to the Seven Infants of Lara with Neila, in relation to the death of Doña Lambra, which occurred, apparently, in the lagoons. Originally inhabited by Pelendones and Romans, and later by Visigoths - the church of Santa María is built on an ancient Visigoth temple - it belonged in the X century to the Alfoz de Lara instituted by Count Fernán Núñez; village of mesteros, the sierra on whose valley it sits, was the scene, as well, of bloody battles against the French invaders and place of refuge of the famous guerrilla known as the Merino Cure, whose house is still preserved in the village.

In Neila is located the source of the river that bears his name; river that, just five kilometers beyond, and within the limits of La Rioja, changes the name to Najerilla.

One of the indisputable pieces of the historical-artistic heritage of Neila, is the hermitage of San Miguel Arcángel, which, although it is hard to say, and to continue surviving, as the friendly guide told me, houses the modern facilities of the House of the Park

Apart from the paintings, probably of Gothic origin, which show a Christ in Maiestas and what can be a confrontation between taps, other pieces of interest that are observed inside, are the baptismal font -on whose base, a snake is noticed enroscada-, the foundational pidra (1) and several capitals that show, exquisitely carved, fantastic vegetal and animal motifs, highlighting, as in the paintings, the motif of the griffins.

On the outside, its apse still conserves some capitals and the series of canecillos, quite worn by effect of the time and the erosion; Among the capitals, one in particular stands out, showing three small heads, corresponding to the center of an Arab figure, judging by the turban that is seen on the head.

It is, in the part of the apse, where numerous marks of stonework are also observed, between which it emphasizes, likewise and repeated several, the star of five ends.

Notes, References and Bibliography:

(1) The foundational inscription, says the following: 'The Nunez abbot with his family founded this (first) church and building of stone and lime, for which the own church Nuño Sancho made it. These workers rest in peace of Mr. San Miguel. In (this) house, in the era of 1125 (year 1087). This house was built for love of God and is good in its construction. '

NOTICE: Originally published in my blog ROMÁNICA, ENIGMAS DEL ROMÁNICO ESPAÑOL, although with updated and unpublished photographs. Both these, and the text, are my exclusive intellectual property. The original entry, where you can check the authorship of juancar347, can be found at the following address: https://juancar347-romanica.blogspot.com/2011/04/neila-ermita-de-san-miguel-arcangel.html

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[Martial, latin poet]

Ars vtinam more Animvm qve effingere. Posses pulchrior in ter. Ris nvlla tabella foret.

Arte Ojala pudieras representar. el carácter y el espíritu. No habría sobre la tierra. Imagen más bella

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Spain, Way and Art: Neila, Nature and Romanesque