The Surf's Up!
Well readers, I been talking about planning the trip, talking about the days leading up to the trip, the one night in Bangkok, the three nights in KL, and so now its time to actually show you all it's real. Im here on the bottom tip of West Java the main island of Indonesia where the capital Jakarta is. My guy Danny picked us up at the airport right on time and me and my wingman have settled in to Cimaja like we never left. We arrived too late too surf on the first day so did what any elite athlete would do - got drunk like shit! But not before strolling down to the beach for a little surf check....:)
But the next morning we shook off the hangover and carefully chose the right weapons for the task at hand. Swell was pumping and probably little bigger than we really cared for on our first day but thats just how it is. I waxed up my twin fin. I love this board - it was custom made for me by a shaper in Thailand. It has a beautiful shape and just the right amount of volume to make it easy to paddle in to bigger waves. The rails stick like glue and the 2 large fins make it a little loose in the back but easy to turn and gently carve. It's an artist's board. Here's me getting my head around some pretty solid sets on the first morning.....
The wave here in Cimaja is a great wave to start on before we head to the big wave spot further up the coast called Sarwana. It's a right hander and is fairly easy to read. There is an angled reef that means the wave pretty much starts at the same spot every time and with luck stays open all the way to shore giving you a ride of about 100m on a good set. This area is very far from Bali so gets very few visitors which means the line up is never crowded and the locals are friendly and relaxed. Nobody is fighting for waves. Here's my wingman getting a few nice ones.....
Here's a text book example of the cardinal sin in surfing. It's called dropping in. As in you take off on to the wave when there is already a surfer on it on your inside. This is me and my bro - he dropped on me and when I yelled HEY!, he turned to me and told me to fuck off. Unbelievable, hahaha. Dont worry though folks I made sure he paid me in beer at the end of the day!
Surfing makes you hungry! The amount of energy that gets expended in a two hour session is hard to explain. Luckily for us our guy Danny and his wife Giggie make the most incredible food - breakfast, lunch and dinner is just amazing and we pretty much fall in to a food coma after every meal. Here was last night's dinner. Spanish Mackerel sate and some kind of eggplant dish with sambal. Just absolute five star food and just a few bucks a head....
This community is all about sports so I dont wanna go too far off track. Ultimately this trip is all about surfing beautiful waves and getting in shape and getting fit and healthy. We will do at least 4 hours surfing every day and eat fresh home cooked food in between. Drink gallons of water and try to slow down on the beers. Surf trips are just great for the soul and I have 4 weeks ahead of me. I will try to post a couple times a week.
I'm Jobiker and I'm on a surf trip with my best friend in West Java. Peace!
My Bru (South African version of bro/bra), I still say you are living the dream! Nice long rides at just overhead!
Your buddy looks bigger than you but you can't let him drop in unpunished! Learn Jiu Jitsu! Haha (kidding - friends are the only people allowed to drop in on each other! Just make sure you get him back and stick a camera in his mouth!).
Who was kind enough to take the photos? You owe them a beer too... It's usually quite a boring job waiting for the surfers to actually get a wave between sets!
Choosing a twin fin for powerful surf is an interesting choice, but I notice modern board design is encouraging people to try different things! You must have felt like you were a bullet! Mid-lengths and twin pins seem to be he flavour of the year! And soft-tops - I actually got one recently and I am loving it!
Hey Bru! My drop in buddy paid me in beer...:) About the photos the local kids here sell photos to anyone surfing. To be honest I normally dont bother but this year it's very clear that people are desperate for money after 2 years of no tourism so i don't mind to buy a few pics each day.
I brought with me a twin fin, a 6'2 single fin and a 6'4 with thruster set up - my go to board when it gets a little bigger. I just love surfing on the twinny though!
Tomorrow we move to the spot up the coast - it holds 12 foot easily on a big swell so lets see how next week pans out. Forecast is 6 - 8 foot all week.
Lol. I don't mind the food part as it is all part of the experience. The trick is to stay away from touristy spots and this looks ideal. Look forward to more posts as this is all very interesting.
Food such an important part of a surf trip. I remember a couple of trips that were food and accommodation inclusive and there simply wasn't enough food. Being in a non-touristed area also helps with the budget!
Nice! those look like some tasty waves, and tasty food to nourish the body and soul for more waves. I haven't been on a surf trip in quite a while.. gotta do something about that!
Thanks @thebalanceguy ! Great waves and great food. If you have not been on a surf trip for a while then come on to Indo - Borders are open and very easy to get in - Visa on arrival at the airport for 35$ and takes five minutes.
Indo might require a bit more planning to get to from Ireland.
It’s definitely on the must-do list though.
Ah yes - that would be a bit of a mission for sure but I imagine one stop in middle east on Emirates or other similar airline and you in Jakarta after one lone day of travel!
Long haul flights mean longer duration trips, which are hard for us to do as my partner and I have almost opposite work schedules 😂🙈
Some day🤞🤞
Wow those are big waves! I've never surfed but I can see it's an extreme and fun experience. Good to see you had a great time on this trip and enjoyed some good food.
Thanks @rosana6 - to be honest those waves are not so big as what next week has forecast so good to get some practice before getting in to the heavy waves...:)
Well,the first thing that makes me to wonder,how brave your friend could be,who took such shots, I mean the little imbalance would cause a ghastly blow onto the water.
Yet,nice to see friend those fantasy outing days. You are such a good guy, be refreshed and keep enjoying the trip.💯
Thanks @asif7 - actually the photographer was on sure with a telephoto lens. Sometimes photographers shoot from in the water but then they have a waterproof housing to protect the camera gear!
Surfing, good food and family. Amen brother, looks amazing 👌
Amen brother! The three greatest things in life - surf, food and family! We just moved up the coast to the next spot - heading out soon - forecast is solid 6 foot....:)
Nice one man, your surf posts always make me want to dust down the auld board 👌
And better dust off the wetsuit if you're planning to surf in Ireland!
Fact!!! And hood and booties....
In fairness I'd only use the hood in Winter and even then it's a bit annoying, but the booties are a god-sent!
I have never surfed in cold water - I have a feeling it's a very different sport. Im a chardonnay surfer - warm water, warm weather, colourful reef, white sand...:)
Living the dream, surfing and keeping fit, and eating perfectly prepared homemade meals. Enjoy your tour
Thanks @diikaan yes living the dream and greatest thing is I can keep working on my laptop being a digital dude. Great thing about surfing is it keeps you fit while having fun!
Amazing photos!
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Thanks a lot @oneup-cartel I love pizza!